Face sud de la Meije... un endroit de reve pour du beau caillou... oui, mais !Depart samedi apres midi, arret a Bourg d'Oisans pour faire 4 courses et se preparer a un bivouac des plus austere: 800g de pates fraiches, pesto, parmesan... biscuits aperitifs...1,5l de bierre, une bouteille de vin... etc etc...
Ouf! ca y'est, on vient de reunir tout le matos technique, bien reparti dans nos sac a dos - 25kg chacun... direction notre aire de bivouac... c'est impressionant, une telle expo... 200m du refuge du chatelleret, ruisseau a 3m, pelouse de 5cm d'epaisseur. Heureusement on est une equipe de choc, moral d'acier, des betes humaines.... the climbing machine team: Yannick dit l'homme a la bequille ou "water-polo man", Jeff - bientot perdu dans les affres indescriptibles du mariage, moi meme - dit bras en bas... apres les avoir leves pendant 2 mois.
Mais quel sera le defit qui fera rever une cette equipe surhumaine? sur-entrainnee, affutee a l'extreme ????
Notre objectif, toucher le mythe: le granite de la face sud de la meije... plus precisement ? gravir la premiere voie moderne de cette face... "L'epinard hallucinogene"
Bien entendu, pas de place a l'improvisation, une equipe de reporters suivra entierement notre escalade en prenant des photos.. decalee de ququ dizaines de metres, afin d'avoir un meilleur angle de prise de vue.
5h30 reveil, il est tot... mais nous sommes deja pret dans notre tete, ultra concentres sur nos 2 bols de cafe. 8h30, 4 longueurs extremement dures - voire meme humide, sur granite lisse et gris. Je sors mes plus beaux mouvements d'artifs, quelle grimpe ! c'est dement, tout s'enchaine, je clippe, je tire sur la degaine sans meme penser a la flotte qui ruisselle le long de mon pantalon... Zen - je crie " RELAIS ", mes compagnons vont se regaler... dommage que l'on ai pas plus de temps, ca vaudrait le coup de re-travailler ces longueurs. S'en suit 100m d'une belle dalle sculptee, la encore, ca deroule comme dans un film... ca va trop vite... non ?!... deja la ?.... les dernieres longueurs: c'est raide, la corde pend dans le vide infini. Jeff prend le relais, assure comme une bete au milieu de ces surplombs et fissures demoniaques... Bravo les ouvreurs ! On est tout heureux, le sommet... 15h30... Encore un defit releve brillament par une equipe de choc!
Quoi ? Oooooops... je crois que je dois haluciner grave... mon recit n'est qu'un infame torchon megalo ?!
Eh oui, vous aussi, vous comprendrez quand vous grimperez "L'epinard halucinogene" ED- 500m, c'est pas majeur et ca vaut pas vraiment le deplacement... un peu decu... alors, fallait bien que je me ratrappe avec un recit halucinant!
Bonjour a la cordee a cote de nous... ce n'etaient pas des reporters, mais ils ont fait de chouettes photos et bien grimpe ! a voir sur leur blog : http://le7econtinent.over-blog.com/
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